Pre-dawn start and a steady climb up the steep hill to get back on route. As I was grinding my way up the climb in the cold mist I noticed that the gap between my front bag and handlebar was collecting spider webs – I didn’t think I was riding that slowly! 

The weather app told me the forecast was good for the rest of the week but today it was going to rain from noon onwards. I booked another Agriturismo ahead, given the success of last night.  The weather app was accurate.  The rain arrived, along with thunder and lightning.  I got out all my wet weather gear: cagoule, over gloves and trousers and it worked really well. I pondered whether having rubber tires would protect me from lightning.  It was torrential and incessant rain for the rest of the day.

In the rain I met Jacco, another of Niel’s stable. He overtook me on a hill.  He had had 7 punctures and needed to stop to wait for a shop to open which is why he had fallen behind me. I didn’t expect to see him again as he was patently a strong rider (I did see him a day or two later. He was walking disconsolately downhill and said he was going to scratch as he had had even more punctures and was completely out of supplies)

I made it to the Agriturismo. They had sent me pictures of my room on WhatsApp. There was another rider there as there was a bike parked outside the door but I never saw them. There was no food so I ate peanuts and chocolate, made myself some tea and hot chocolate in the kitchen, hung my stuff up to dry, showered and went to bed. I saw no one else.

At least the forecast ahead was good!!

I managed to get some pretty good sleep. In the kitchen dining area there was cereal, toast and jam and coffee so we were able to fuel up before setting off the short ride to the start. The Bay of Naples was wonderful in the dark and an excited gaggle of riders gathered for the Mayor of Ercolano to cut the start tape and then we were off on our first climb of the day – Vesuvius.

It was a long steady, 8km, climb and took me about an hour or so. I was soon left behind and then met others descending. Some too fast.  I heard a ‘whump’  – the noise of bike and body on tarmac but kept going as others were descending and could help. That rider, I think, subsequently scratched.  The moon was out and as I turned to descend I began to learn that you need to pull on warm clothing for descents at night otherwise you quickly freeze.

As dawn broke the next climb, Monte Faito, presented itself. This was another long, 11.5km, 7%, climb on a back road covered in the debris from sweet chestnut trees. The views back towards Naples, Pompei and Vesuvius were stunning.

At the summit was a cafe and views out across to Capri. It marked the turning point onto the Amalfi coast and several hours of cycling in sunshine, with the sea sparkling on my right and the most glorious views.

I made it to the ‘buffet’ at Juliana’s husband’s hotel. I was told it was one of the five best hotels in the world. That may be so but I was mostly focussed on devouring the ham rolls and apple juice on the table in the car park and using the toilet (accessed by a lift….I think the hotel is built into the cliffs..).

The ride along the coast undulated until I reached the final climbing for the day.

By this time I had booked an Agriturismo at Monteforte Cilento. What I hadn’t realised was it was a couple of km off route and down a steep descent.  It was worth it.  The elderly (probably around the same age as me?) Owner showed me to my room. A big bed, shuttered windows, thick stone walls and a hot shower.  I asked if he did food.  He got his daughter on the phone who spoke English.  I was taken to a deserted dining area and then given a superb plate of ricotta stuffed pasta and then a pork steak. He also supplied an unlabelled bottle of red wine. I thought it would be churlish not to have a glass.   I had had a great first day and went to bed with the aim of setting off early the next day, forgoing the breakfast.