Tag: hiking

Day 7 TAW – Bivvy to Peace Bridge

Jul 10th, 2025

I woke very early after less than 3hrs sleep. I was excited, despite the lack of sleep, as I anticipated the possibility of finishing.

I had a big climb to get over (called Poison Glen Full on Strava: 5km average 4%) and then made it to the entrance to Glenveagh. There were toilets! The relief at finding a toilet is not to be scoffed at on these long rides. Shortly after I arrived Jackie and Rupert turned up as well. I had been yo-yoing with them and Paula the last couple of days. It was nice to have some company as we made our way round the gravel track in Glenveagh, a scenic route.

I found a resupply and decided it was a good time to up the caffeine energy drink game.

I was making my way to Rathmullen for another ferry crossing. Jackie and Rupert disappeared ahead and for some reason I had it in my head it was only a few kilometres to the ferry. It wasn’t but I rationalised I was still munching the distance under my wheels so it didn’t matter and the views continued to exceed expectations.

As I got to the ferry I found Rupert and Jackie. they had made it there just as the ferry was pulling out and hour before. It was just pulling in again and we all got on board and I found somewhere to charge some of my electronics as we crossed to Buncrana.

The next major landmark would be Malin Head. Unfortunately there were some pretty lumpy bits still to get over.

The weather had turned ‘damp’ again so I took a moment to swop out my normal for waterproof socks. These worked a dream keeping my feet warm and dry in the rain. Totally recommend.

I made it to Malin Head around 6pm and had a little moment as I remembered my mother and the trip we had made here all those years ago.

We were not far, either, from Carndonagh, where the family had a house I visited as a pre-teen. the Bridge House, I think it was called. The copper pipes in the kitchen gleamed so brightly I remember asking if they were made of gold, to much laughter.

Annie Dixey had come third overall on the Setanta route and first woman to finish. She had texted me earlier in the day:”Keep some legs for the ride from Malin to Derry. There are some unnecessary hills.

It was about 70-80km to Derry and there were several climbs between me and the finish including one of 3.5km at 4% (30minute effort) and the Kinnego Bay climb at 6% average which took me nearly an hour to summit (some hiking was involved on the steeper bits).

Remember I said how time warps when riding – the last 20km lasted an eternity before I saw the Peace Bridge lit up in the distance.

It was about midnight as I rolled across the bridge to finish. At the far end Annie was waiting and shouting “top ten finisher”. I couldn’t believe it and expressed my disbelief with many a WTF! It took me several days to really believe that I had come in tenth on the Setanta route. Of the 49 riders who started only 4 scratched.

I made my way to the accommodation to be met by a surprised Adrian who said ” I wan’t expecting you to finish until two or three am!”. I had a cup of tea and found a bunk to sleep in. I had done it in 6 days 18hours and 40minutes.
Day 5 TAW – Westport to Ballina

Jul 9th, 2025

16th June, 2025

I had my breakfast of instant porridge, bread roll and banana along with instant coffee in my room.

I was off early and on a very nice bike path, the Great Western Greenway, out towards Achill Island.

I had now done over a thousand kilometres. Originally I had thought the route would take me 8 days but a plan to finish in 7 days was fomenting in my brain. It seemed feasible so long as I had a fair wind and no catastrophes.

There was another memorial to the Spanish Armada on my route. Apparently 5 ships from the Armada sank just off the coast here as they tried to make their way home.

If the wind they experienced was anything like the block headwind I had cycling out to Achill Island then I am not surprised they were wrecked! The flags by the side of the road were straining the poles they were attached to and it was a real battle to maintain momentum or, if I turned sideways onto the wind, to stay upright.

That didn’t detract from the views. The coast line was ragged with multiple inlets and so beautiful.

Eventually I got to turn North up the coast before heading East towards Ballina where I planned to stop.

I made a stop at a chemist to buy some insoles. I had been suffering achilles pain and attributed it to some new supports I had bought for my shoes shortly before the race. I had taken them out a couple of days ago and was riding with no insoles which seemed to help but I was worried I would wear through my socks as the top of the cleats were now exposed. A vey nice assistant in the chemists cut some insoles to fit and solved the problem.

I also refuelled at a petrol station.

The road to Ballina was very straight and I had a tailwind.

I had booked another guesthouse and after some wandering around, once I got to where I thought it was, I located the front door just as someone who worked there arrived, let me in, and gave me advice on where not to eat! I decided to repeat my Tesco raid and settled for more cold pasta, chocolate milk and cold rice pudding. Tomorrow would determine if I could make it to Derry in two days or not, so I collapsed into bed and fell asleep in moments.
Day 4 – TAW – CP2 to Westport

Jul 8th, 2025

15th June, 2025

I made some toast and coffee and added a banana for my breakfast in the kitchen at Anne’s farm. Some had already left and others. like Jackie, were preparing to leave. I probably got out a bit late, around 6am and set off around Loughrea and north-west through Connemara.

The geography of the route so far had astounded me with the variation in landscape and Connemara raised the game even further.

It was pretty isolated, though from time to time I would pass or be passed (more often) by another cyclist. Then I came to the Doolough Valley and the memorial to the individuals who died there during the famine.

On Friday 30 March 1849, two officials of the Westport Poor Law Union arrived in Louisburghto inspect those people in receipt of outdoor relief to verify that they should continue to receive it. The inspection, for some reason, did not take place and the two officials went on to Delphi Lodge – a hunting lodge – 19 kilometres (12 miles) south of Louisburgh where they intended to spend the night. Several hundred people who had gathered for the inspection, or later did so, were consequently instructed to appear at Delphi Lodge at 7am the following morning if they wished to continue receiving relief. For much of the night and day that followed seemingly hundreds of destitute and starving people had to undertake what for them, given their existing state of debilitation, was an extremely fatiguing journey, in very bad weather.

A letter-writer to The Mayo Constitution newspaper reported shortly afterwards that the bodies of seven people, including women and children, were subsequently discovered on the roadside between Delphi and Louisburgh overlooking the shores of Doolough lake,and that nine or ten more people never reached their homes. While some sources put the total number of deaths at approximately 20 people, local sources suggest that the number who perished was far higher.

A cross and an annual ‘Famine Walk’ between Louisburgh and Doolough commemorate the event.^[8] The monument in Doolough valley has an inscription from Mahatma Gandhi: “How can men feel themselves honoured by the humiliation of their fellow beings?” [ref: Wikipedia].

It was a somber and desolate place and I was relieved to move on and head to Westport where I had booked into a guesthouse.

I got a text message telling me how to access the accommodation and where to leave my bike. Everything was done remotely and there was no one around when I got there, let myself in and dumped some kit before cycling up a very steep hill to a Tesco and getting supplies for my dinner.

Cold chicken pasta, sushi, chocolate milk and a Philadelphia cream cheese roll filled me up.

I also had to charge the powermeter pedals on my bike as well as my phone, Garmin and headphones. Showering, eating and charging were quickly followed by sleeping.

I was pleased with the distance I had covered and looked forward to making it round Achill Island the next day. Little did I know!
TAW – Day 2 – Bantry to Tralee

Jul 5th, 2025

13th June, 2025

The day started with some confusion. I had ordered a continental style breakfast for 4.30am. When I got down to the dining area the overnight porter said both the 4.30 breakfasts were taken and the next was at 5am. Some sleuthing deduced that one of the peeps tucking into a 4.30 repast had actually ordered his for 5am but with some limitations to his English had assumed what he got was what he ordered. Did it matter? Nah. the night porter just brought out the food and coffee and all was well.

I can confirm I was on the road by 5.09am as that is what this photo of Bantry Bay is labelled with on the computer.

The weather was much better than yesterday and views along the coast unfolded delightfully.

The first big climb of the day was Healey Pass about 6km long at 4-5%. A classy little climb with lots of hairpins and through some rocky terrain.

And then you get to the top and catch the view ahead and a cracking descent

I couldn’t get over how lovely the countryside was, how quiet the roads were and how good the petrol stations were as a source of food. I had heard tell that they were good but they exceeded expectation with their hot and cold deli counters, coffee machines and bountiful supply of carbohydrate laced nourishment.

There were also some cracking cafes and passing through Kenmare I spotted two other TAW cyclists finishing off food and coffee and one told me the pie was delicious. Well I had to, didn’t I! She was right. I think it was Paula who told me this and she will feature more later in the race.

Another pass followed, the Gap o Dunloe with twisty roads and fine views.

If I remember correctly the only traffic consisted of horse drawn traps and walkers so I was able to get someone to take a picture of me at the crest of the pass.

By this point I had done about 100km and it was not yet noon. On reflection I think the secret to the ride was starting early. I am naturally a morning person and starting around 5am means a good chunk of distance is behind you by lunchtime (whenever that is).

On my descent I came past a real life Trail Angel. I screeched to a halt and turned back to take advantage of his offer of energy bars. Thank you Dave, they were a very useful in addition to the sausage baguette and coke from a petrol station, a little later, that marked ‘lunchtime’.

Dingle marked the passing of 160km or 100miles. I have fond memories of Dingle as Linda and I took a bike ride out along the fuchsia hedged roads when we were there on our honeymoon and, once more, the fuchsia was in bloom.

I had decided I would try and make Tralee for the day and started looking on Booking.com for somewhere to stay. Unfortunately there was nowhere to book. It had also started to rain and I had to don my overtrousers as well as my jacket a couple of times. It was too hot to wear if not raining but too wet not to put on if it was. The downpours would only last 30minutes to an hour so it was a bit of a faff but I have learnt it is best to try and stay dry otherwise I can quickly get cold and chafe.

Before Tralee there was Connor Pass to be climbed. I am looking at my record on Strava and can see that it took me just over an hour to climb 6.5km with an average of 6%. Another lesson I learnt is to enjoy the climb at a pace I can sustain. There is always a descent to enjoy and catch up on some of the time lost.

I made it to Tralee and asked someone on the street if they knew of a hotel. they pointed me in the direction of The James Hotel. I asked the doorman if they had any rooms. “We only have a superior left at xxx euros”. I must have looked doubtful as he suggested trying a place across the street. It may have been a guesthouse but I could not fathom how to get in or connect with anyone so I went back and said I would take the room. “Any chance of dinner?” “The kitchen is shut now but let me see what I can do.” Meanwhile I got to my room, showered, put on a clean t shirt (I had to wear my bib shorts as I had no other clothes) and went back down to the bar. “Would you like a pizza?” Oh, how wonderful! A pizza and Guinness zero put me right and the doorman gave me extra biscuits and tea and coffee when he learned I was leaving before breakfast the next morning. I thoroughly recommend The James Hotel 🙂

It had been a good day and I had made more than 250km that day before I collapsed into a nice, comfortable bed, with the alarm set for early o’clock.
Tour de Dark and White Peak

Apr 14th, 2025

Back in 2020 I did my very first bike packing trip. I had found a route on Bikepacking.com called the Dark and White Peak Peek. https://bikepacking.com/routes/dark-white-peak-peek/

Given the circumstances, that year, I set off from home to cycle into the Peaks and do an unsupported ride with minimal human contact. I had my hardtail and some new bags.

I managed a couple of days, with a secluded wild camp near Ladybower, but found it much harder than anticipated and bailed out. It left me with an itch to go back and do the whole route. Being part of the Turn Cycling group (Niel runs a group chat on Discord which is a great for organising meet ups, insights and discovering new ways to spend money) I asked if anyone fancied doing the route on the first weekend of April. I got two takers, Niel and Cat Magill. I was a bit daunted by Cat accepting the invitation as she has done the Highland Trail 550 three times and The Silk Road Mountain Race last year!

We planned to meet up in the carpark at Hathersage where Niel would leave his van and Cat and I could get there easily by train as it is just round the corner from the station. Well it was easy for me coming from Shireoaks with my full suss adorned with Tailfin bags.

Cat had to get there from Edinburgh.

The plan worked!

We set off from Hathersage around 2pm to make the long climb up underneath Stanage Edge and then across and up the Long Causeway

Further on I managed to avoid the easy bypass to quite a technical section and then headed off down the wrong way enforcing a strenuous hike a bike back up to the other two, who I think were somewhat amused?

The riding was fun with some technical bits that had to be hiked and long gravelly downhills. Keeping up with Niel and Cat was stretching me but they patently had a lot of patience and given the weather none of us was complaining.

It did lead to an executive decision to cut off a loop on the route and head down to Newfold Farm in Edale where I had booked our camping for the night.

The campsite has all the amenities including a pub across the road where we had dinner. Just as we finished eating they announced the pub quiz. I haven’t participated in one for decades and of course didn’t need a pencil and paper as it was done using an app (which also makes it almost impossible to Google answers as there is little time to do so).

We really enjoyed it, especially as we made the podium, coming third!

The weather had been stunning all day and the sky cloudless.This did mean the temperature overnight dropped and I discovered a new fact. Sleeping mats have an R rating. It indicates how well the mat insulates you. Anything below 2 is best for summer use. I now know my mat is best for summer use. Of course the coach had the perfect set up. Meanwhile Cat bivvied!!

The second day was even better than the first. We looped back to do some of what we had missed out the day before and climbed the old road up to Mam Tor. The ridge along the back was full of walkers so we had to weave our way along it before descending back down towards Edale again.

Of course there was the ubiquitous hike a bike up over Cut Gate compensated for by the descent on the far side.

As we made our way over to Woodhead Pass we realised we were in for a ‘reet treat’. the pass was closed to cars and we had it all to ourselves on one long glorious descent down the Glossop side.

Once more creature comforts superseded perfectionism and we cut some of the route off to get to a campsite in Hayfield. there was pub just above it, on the road, but they told us they weren’t taking any walk in’s. There is, however, a superb Italian in Hayfield where the portions are designed for mountain bikers and the wine tastes sublime (well anything tastes sublime after the day’s riding we had had). Cat declared the day ‘rad’ and I put my emergency blanket under my sleeping mat which helped me sleep really well despite the temperature once more dropping (or was it the wine?).

We couldn’t believe out luck when day 3 dawned with more glorious sunshine.

There was long tarmac climb out of Hayfield before we got off road again and across the Peak Forest to Tideswell.

there we met up with Jonny and had a second breakfast.

The Monsal Trail was packed with runners doing a half marathon and walkers. I also got shouted at for turning on my Exposure light in the tunnels as it, allegedly, blinded people…well at least they knew I was coming.

Up over Curbar and then across and round to Surprise Corner before

making the fast descent back to the carpark and the station.

Cat and I took the train to Sheffield where she headed north and I discovered the next two trains back to Shireoaks had been cancelled. I would have to wait over two hours for a train. Or I could just cycle home, which is what I did.

What a weekend of great riding, great weather, great company and great fun.
Marcher Castles Way – Day 2

Mar 29th, 2025

It was a small Travelodge so breakfast was sourced from the Co-op across the car park. Our aim for the day was to get to Montgomery where Jo had booked a hotel room whilst Penny, Niel and I planned to camp.

Although the route could be done on a Gravel bike the three of us had elected to use full suspension mountain bikes. This is, undoubtedly, due to the influence of our coach, Niel Copeland. From my perspective it made for a very comfortable ride and the mtb gears helped on the ‘undulations’.

If you want to know more about Niel and the advice he provides then there is a very good podcast to listen to here: https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/going-long-ultra-cycling-coach-niel-copeland-on-how/id1770536914?i=1000699460775 (available on other platforms as well).

The terrain en route from Ludlow to Montgomery is very mixed and, although we were lucky with the weather, there were still some muddy bits to navigate and each day threw a bit of hike a bike at us.

Even though you are in a highly populated country the route can feel very remote and exposed with off road climbs and descents. There were significant gaps between resupply options. Resupply when available is essential.

We had a pavement picnic in Knighton and got our water supply restocked in Clun.

Pressing on towards Montgomery we were all feeling the strain of the incessant hills. Maintaining enough carb intake was also impacting on my gut. I was trying to make sure that I was eating enough to take in about 60gcarb/hour but my choice of nutrition meant I was experiencing some discombobulations in my belly. Our progress was good but we knew we would probably not make Montgomery until about 7pm. We decided we should all eat together at the hotel Jo was staying at and then Niel Penny and I would head for the campsite. Penny made contact to let them know we would be late which is when we discovered the campsite had a burst pipe and the showers weren’t working. By then I had already silently decided I was going to ask if they had a room at the hotel and I made this thinking public.

Before Montgomery there is the most beautiful plateau ride. It is a haul to get up to it but worthwhile for the views. Before you get to descend to Montgomery there is a stinger of a climb again and then we were outside the hotel and wheeled our bikes through to the back and the laundry room where they would be stored for the night.

I got to reception to discover that Niel was negotiating a good rate for three more rooms! I fear my weak will had a domino effect and we decided to all stay the night.

Bowel decompression, dinner, shower and then bed…….I didn’t have a shave 😉