Cycling Coffee and Cake

  • Dales Divide – the final push

    The day started well as I had a pretty good sleep despite the fact there was a ground frost when I woke up.

    I made myself coffee and porridge.

    Another rider appeared, to use the toilet block. He had slept in a bus shelter not far back and looked pretty good on it!

    I packed up the bike and headed out.

    It was a balmy day with no wind !

    As ever the views were wonderful and even the final push up a field too steep for me to cycle didn’t seem that bad.

    The end was in site but I didn’t bother to head into Arnside. I knew I had DQ’d myself by missing out Dent station and decided to go straight back to the car. I messaged on the rider chat and got thanked for my honesty as someone would have had to check my route file to see that I had avoided the loop up to the station.

    Was I disappointed? No. The conditions had been hugely challenging. I’d made some good decisions (bringing a tent, some dehydrated food, coffee bags and a stove; taking the shortcut to Osmotherley) and got round under my own steam.

    The Dales Divide is a wonderful route and, already, I am thinking about doing it again!

  • Dales Divide 2026 – Day 3

    I could have, I should have, left early but decided to have another hot meal and stay until a full English breakfast was served.It was worth the wait!

    I set off and the first 3 hours confirmed my decision not to grind on to Catterick Garrison in the storm the previous night. The weather was a lot better but the wind was set to be a block headwind all day.

    It was mostly tarmac interspersed with gravel or rutted bridleways

    The route took me past some bothies, one of which I had found shelter in on my first Dales Divide. I rode straight past it to make the one where Restrap were providing ramen and tea!

    Then it was back out into the headwind and a big effort to make Dent. I came to a fork where, to follow the route, I should divert off road and climb up to Dent station. I was cold, hungry and could see the tarmac descent would take me all the way into the village. In retrospect it was not much of a diversion to the station and if I hadn’t been tired and cold and thinking straight I should have worked that out and completed the route but I didn’t. I allowed gravity to take down the hill and into Dent.

    Both the pubs had no food or rooms but there was a campsite. I searched for someone to register with but couldn’t find anyone, so I pitched my tent and dug out a dehydrated meal of vegetable stir fry. Having eaten I climbed into my sleeping bag and fell asleep pretty quickly.

  • Dales Divide – 2026 – Day 2

    Day 2

    My Lofoten Tent has a problem with condensation. The bottom of my sleeping bag was wet on the outside but I didn’t have time or the weather to dry it. I packed up whilst making myself some porridge and coffee. I was so glad I had brought a small stove, it was a life saver.

    Setting off I surged up a climb only realising I had left my light behind and had to return and repeat the hill I had done so far!

    It was pretty good going to York but the weather forecast had not changed and there were dire warnings about Storm Dave. I summed and ahhd, while riding into York about whether to divert onto the short cut that headed north to Osmotherley while enjoying the offerings made by a trail angel!

    In York I dithered whilst also trying to download the diversion to my Garmin (memo: put all alternatives on your Garmin before the event!). Ultimately I had to resort to putting my phone onto the quad lock I had on my handlebars and plug it into my power bank to let me navigate the route. Tow bits of luck again. Firstly I had a quad lock, which I hardly ever use, on my handlebars and secondly I had learnt from my coach, Niel Copeland, that the app would work in flight mode saving battery wear.

    Rounding a corner I almost fell off my bike with surprise to find the aforementioned coach greeting me! He said the conditions were some of the worst he had ever experienced and the going was so slow he had decided to take the shorter route. It validated my decision for me and I tried chasing him for a while before he easily pulled away into the distance.

    There was a nasty steep climb up onto the hills before Osmotherley which I mostly had to walk. Then there were miles of glorious gravel track and a tailwind so strong if I sat up it felt like my speed nearly doubled!

    I made Osmotherly late in the evening. Niel had said he was heading on to Catterick Garrison but I felt that much extra was too much. I rounded the corner to check out the only hotel in town. Booking.com had no vacancies. There was a man standing outside having a cigarette. He looked at me through the dark, “Have you booked a room?” “No, you don’t have any free do you?” “I’ve just had a cancellation.” Once again Lady Luck struck. I hit the bar for a hot meal and then a shower and bed. I was also able to dry everything out and recharge my phone, light, Garmin and powerbank. Outside Storm Dave raged.

    I learnt later that some people tried battling through the winds and rain and got caught on the fells having to shelter behind a wall. Others, like me, just rested up through the worst of it.

    To York:

    York to Osmotherley

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  • Dales Divide 2026

    A long time ago a senior colleague (American) told me “It’s better to be lucky than good”. I would prefer both attributes but luck did favour me on this edition of the Dales Divide.

    The first bit of luck was someone from the coaching group I am in (Turn Cycling) offer the room he had booked at The Olde Fighting Cocks up as he could no longer do the event. I snapped it up as I had left it too late to book, having decided quite late in the day to enter. This would be my third time staying there and it is incredibly convenient for the start.

    There was the usual kit explosion in the morning before I drove up to the car park at Milnthorpe and then rode back to the start on the pier in Arnside

    The weather was wet and windy and we had the addition of Storm Dave predicted to arrive Saturday night. All day Friday it felt as if it had already arrived! The going was tough with the off road sections muddy, slippy with plenty of head wind at times.

    I found the going hard and slow and was sure I was behind any previous time I had done on the first day.

    I didn’t get to the cafe before Chris’s farm until 4.30pm. I was told they stopped serving food at 3.30 but they took pity on me and I got a plate of beans on toast and some coffee. The weather had somewhat improved as well!

    Malham Tarn was the next landmark and was bathed in a warm evening light.

    I pushed on and tried to get some of the hills and bogs before York out of the way before it got too late. Around 11pm I decided it was time to rest and found a secluded spot in a dip in the road under some trees. I pitched the tent and rehydrated a packet of Expedition Food Chicken Noodles. Despite my efforts I found it hard to eat and finally collapsed into my sleeping bag around midnight.

    Day 2

    There is a problem with the Lofoten Tent with condensation. the bottom of my sleeping bag was wet on the outside but I didn’t have time or the weather to dry it. I packed up whilst making myself some porridge and coffee. I was so glad I had brought a small stove, it was a life saver.

    Setting off I surged up a climb only realising I had left my light behind and had to return and repeat the hill I had done so far!

    It was pretty good going to York but the weather forecast had not changed and there were dire warnings about Storm Dave. I summed and ahhd, while riding into York about whether to divert onto the short cut that headed north to Osmotherley while enjoying the offerings made by a trail angel!

    In York I dithered whilst also trying to download the diversion to my Garmin (memo: put all alternatives on your Garmin before the event!). Ultimately I had to resort to putting my phone onto the quad lock I had on my handlebars and plug it into my power bank to let me navigate the route. Tow bits of luck again. Firstly I had a quad lock, which I hardly ever use, on my handlebars and secondly I had learnt from my coach, Niel Copeland, that the app would work in flight mode saving battery wear.

    Rounding a corner I almost fell off my bike with surprise to find the aforementioned coach greeting me! He said the conditions were some of the worst he had ever experienced and the going was so slow he had decided to take the shorter route. It validated my decision for me and I tried chasing him for a while before he easily pulled away into the distance.

    there was a nasty steep climb up onto the hills before Osmotherley which I mostly had to walk. Then there were miles of glorious gravel track and a tailwind so strong if I sat up it felt like my speed nearly doubled!

    I made Osmotherly late in the evening. Niel had said he was heading on to Catterick Garrison but I felt that much extra was too much. I rounded the corner to check out the only hotel in town. Booking.com had no vacancies. There was Aman standing outside having a cigarette. he looked at me, “Have you booked a room?” “No, you don’t have any free do you?” “I’ve just had a cancellation.” Once again Lady Luck struck. I hit the bar for a hot meal and then a shower and bed. Outside Storm Dave raged.

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  • Day 7 TAW – Bivvy to Peace Bridge

    I woke very early after less than 3hrs sleep. I was excited, despite the lack of sleep, as I anticipated the possibility of finishing.

    I had a big climb to get over (called Poison Glen Full on Strava: 5km average 4%) and then made it to the entrance to Glenveagh. There were toilets! The relief at finding a toilet is not to be scoffed at on these long rides. Shortly after I arrived Jackie and Rupert turned up as well. I had been yo-yoing with them and Paula the last couple of days. It was nice to have some company as we made our way round the gravel track in Glenveagh, a scenic route.

    I found a resupply and decided it was a good time to up the caffeine energy drink game.

    I was making my way to Rathmullen for another ferry crossing. Jackie and Rupert disappeared ahead and for some reason I had it in my head it was only a few kilometres to the ferry. It wasn’t but I rationalised I was still munching the distance under my wheels so it didn’t matter and the views continued to exceed expectations.

    As I got to the ferry I found Rupert and Jackie. they had made it there just as the ferry was pulling out and hour before. It was just pulling in again and we all got on board and I found somewhere to charge some of my electronics as we crossed to Buncrana.

    The next major landmark would be Malin Head. Unfortunately there were some pretty lumpy bits still to get over.

    The weather had turned ‘damp’ again so I took a moment to swop out my normal for waterproof socks. These worked a dream keeping my feet warm and dry in the rain. Totally recommend.

    I made it to Malin Head around 6pm and had a little moment as I remembered my mother and the trip we had made here all those years ago.

    We were not far, either, from Carndonagh, where the family had a house I visited as a pre-teen. the Bridge House, I think it was called. The copper pipes in the kitchen gleamed so brightly I remember asking if they were made of gold, to much laughter.

    Annie Dixey had come third overall on the Setanta route and first woman to finish. She had texted me earlier in the day:”Keep some legs for the ride from Malin to Derry. There are some unnecessary hills.

    It was about 70-80km to Derry and there were several climbs between me and the finish including one of 3.5km at 4% (30minute effort) and the Kinnego Bay climb at 6% average which took me nearly an hour to summit (some hiking was involved on the steeper bits).

    Remember I said how time warps when riding – the last 20km lasted an eternity before I saw the Peace Bridge lit up in the distance.

    It was about midnight as I rolled across the bridge to finish. At the far end Annie was waiting and shouting “top ten finisher”. I couldn’t believe it and expressed my disbelief with many a WTF! It took me several days to really believe that I had come in tenth on the Setanta route. Of the 49 riders who started only 4 scratched.

    I made my way to the accommodation to be met by a surprised Adrian who said ” I wan’t expecting you to finish until two or three am!”. I had a cup of tea and found a bunk to sleep in. I had done it in 6 days 18hours and 40minutes.

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  • Day 6 – TAW – Ballina to Bivvy

    17th June, 2025

    I wanted an early start so I could get distance done today. I was getting used to instant porridge for breakfast but cold rice pudding was a new dish and was pretty damned good! I had also washed my bib shorts overnight and found a use for a hairdryer. Those of you who know me will understand that I normally have no use for a hairdryer…

    The streets were empty and glistening with the overnight rain as I set off.

    As was always the case the first 20 or more kilometres sped by. This is never the case at the end of a day when the last 20km seem to take forever.

    I was heading for Donegal and would be passing through Sligo where I had been on a walking holiday only the year before.

    But before I got to Sligo I heard the dreaded hiss of a puncture and pulled over to inspect the rear tyre. I leant the bike against a wall and could see sealant bubbling up. A woman emerged on the drive to the house I was stopped outside. She invited me onto the drive to fix my puncture and then insisted on bringing me coffee and freshly baked scones with butter and jam.

    Meanwhile I was reaching into my tool bag to find some plugs for the puncture as it wasn’t sealing. I searched in vain. I had no plugs and remembered putting them out at home to put into the tool bag…..

    What I did have was some superglue and a patch for my airbed. I smeared glue over the hole and applied the patch. It sealed the puncture. I inflated the tyre with the electric pump. It held.

    MacGyver: make or repair (an object) in an improvised or inventive way, making use of whatever items are at hand.

    This repair held for the next 500km and beyond. In fact I have done nothing to it since I got home!

    What I did want was to lay my hands on some plugs just in case it didn’t hold. A quick Google search revealed a bike shop which would be open in Sligo at 10am. I got there about 20minutes before it was due to open and waited.

    At 10am someone turned up.

    “Have you got any tubeless plugs?” “I don’t think so, but let’s look”. My heart sank then rose as he found a pack on the counter!

    Just as I was leaving another rider rolled in to get his rear tyre replaced as it had worn right down.

    Confidence restored I pushed on past Yeats resting place and the mountains I had been clambering over a year before.

    The weather started to perk up and I spotted a little cafe in Kinlough where I ordered a delicious wrap and chips and coffee – the first hot meal I had sat down for in a while.

    I have memories of a road trip with my mother and brother up to Donegal and to visit the town where my mother’s family had come from. What I hadn’t seen were the spectacular beaches along the coast.

    There were some pretty stiff climbs through Donegal and the route was ‘undulating’. By the end of the day I would have nearly 3000m of climbing.

    This was Glengesh pass which took me nearly an hour to climb and was about 200km into the day’s riding.

    Someone had asked me earlier in the day where I planned to stop and I replied “I’ll ride and decide”. I had made my mind up to push as far into the evening as I could and bivvy for the night. The forecast looked good and it meant I didn’t have to worry about finding somewhere to stay. Even at 10pm it was still light.

    Eventually I found somewhere beside the road where I could roll out my bivvy bag. First I had to liberally cover my head with Smidge as the midges were a nightmare. I slid into my sleeping bag, lay down and was asleep pretty quickly. It had been a long and challenging day but I was still on course to finish in 7 days.

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  • Day 5 TAW – Westport to Ballina

    16th June, 2025

    I had my breakfast of instant porridge, bread roll and banana along with instant coffee in my room.

    I was off early and on a very nice bike path, the Great Western Greenway, out towards Achill Island.

    I had now done over a thousand kilometres. Originally I had thought the route would take me 8 days but a plan to finish in 7 days was fomenting in my brain. It seemed feasible so long as I had a fair wind and no catastrophes.

    There was another memorial to the Spanish Armada on my route. Apparently 5 ships from the Armada sank just off the coast here as they tried to make their way home.

    If the wind they experienced was anything like the block headwind I had cycling out to Achill Island then I am not surprised they were wrecked! The flags by the side of the road were straining the poles they were attached to and it was a real battle to maintain momentum or, if I turned sideways onto the wind, to stay upright.

    That didn’t detract from the views. The coast line was ragged with multiple inlets and so beautiful.

    Eventually I got to turn North up the coast before heading East towards Ballina where I planned to stop.

    I made a stop at a chemist to buy some insoles. I had been suffering achilles pain and attributed it to some new supports I had bought for my shoes shortly before the race. I had taken them out a couple of days ago and was riding with no insoles which seemed to help but I was worried I would wear through my socks as the top of the cleats were now exposed. A vey nice assistant in the chemists cut some insoles to fit and solved the problem.

    I also refuelled at a petrol station.

    The road to Ballina was very straight and I had a tailwind.

    I had booked another guesthouse and after some wandering around, once I got to where I thought it was, I located the front door just as someone who worked there arrived, let me in, and gave me advice on where not to eat! I decided to repeat my Tesco raid and settled for more cold pasta, chocolate milk and cold rice pudding. Tomorrow would determine if I could make it to Derry in two days or not, so I collapsed into bed and fell asleep in moments.

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  • Day 4 – TAW – CP2 to Westport

    15th June, 2025

    I made some toast and coffee and added a banana for my breakfast in the kitchen at Anne’s farm. Some had already left and others. like Jackie, were preparing to leave. I probably got out a bit late, around 6am and set off around Loughrea and north-west through Connemara.

    The geography of the route so far had astounded me with the variation in landscape and Connemara raised the game even further.

    It was pretty isolated, though from time to time I would pass or be passed (more often) by another cyclist. Then I came to the Doolough Valley and the memorial to the individuals who died there during the famine.

    On Friday 30 March 1849, two officials of the Westport Poor Law Union arrived in Louisburghto inspect those people in receipt of outdoor relief to verify that they should continue to receive it. The inspection, for some reason, did not take place and the two officials went on to Delphi Lodge – a hunting lodge – 19 kilometres (12 miles) south of Louisburgh where they intended to spend the night. Several hundred people who had gathered for the inspection, or later did so, were consequently instructed to appear at Delphi Lodge at 7am the following morning if they wished to continue receiving relief. For much of the night and day that followed seemingly hundreds of destitute and starving people had to undertake what for them, given their existing state of debilitation, was an extremely fatiguing journey, in very bad weather.

    A letter-writer to The Mayo Constitution newspaper reported shortly afterwards that the bodies of seven people, including women and children, were subsequently discovered on the roadside between Delphi and Louisburgh overlooking the shores of Doolough lake,and that nine or ten more people never reached their homes. While some sources put the total number of deaths at approximately 20 people, local sources suggest that the number who perished was far higher.

    A cross and an annual ‘Famine Walk’ between Louisburgh and Doolough commemorate the event.[8] The monument in Doolough valley has an inscription from Mahatma Gandhi: “How can men feel themselves honoured by the humiliation of their fellow beings?” [ref: Wikipedia].

    It was a somber and desolate place and I was relieved to move on and head to Westport where I had booked into a guesthouse.

    I got a text message telling me how to access the accommodation and where to leave my bike. Everything was done remotely and there was no one around when I got there, let myself in and dumped some kit before cycling up a very steep hill to a Tesco and getting supplies for my dinner.

    Cold chicken pasta, sushi, chocolate milk and a Philadelphia cream cheese roll filled me up.

    I also had to charge the powermeter pedals on my bike as well as my phone, Garmin and headphones. Showering, eating and charging were quickly followed by sleeping.

    I was pleased with the distance I had covered and looked forward to making it round Achill Island the next day. Little did I know!

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  • Day 3 – TAW

    14th June, 2025.

    As I write this up, some weeks later, I look at the record of the ride on Strava and see that I started at 5.22am. It wasn’t until I had done about 50km that I took my first photograph two and a half hours later.

    Now, I reflect that I was so into the ride that I was not prepared to stop. I just wanted to keep moving. On the first day I rode for 12hrs 33m. My elapsed time was 13hrs 50m. The previous day I rode for 14hrs and stopped for less than 2hrs. I was eating on the bike and only stopping to resupply or maybe grab a pie or a sandwich and a coffee. I wasn’t moving particularly fast but like the tortoise I was keeping up with some of the hares. I only realised that later as I never look at Dotwatcher when I am racing. maybe I should but I feel it would make little difference. I just need to ride the ride I ride. if I started to chase others I would probably burn out or get despondent.

    Today I had to catch a ferry at Tarbert. As I turned the corner and the slipway came into sight so did the ferry and it was pulling in.

    Other riders (the hares) had been waiting a while so I was really lucky with my timing. There was even a little booth selling coffee on the ferry.

    The weather was a bit mixed but good for riding. There was the obligatory stop for hot food at a petrol station late morning.

    The coastline we were riding is drenched in history. There are memorials on the route to the Spanish Armada. Spanish Point was named after the Spanish who died here in 1588, when many ships of the Spanish Armada were wrecked during stormy weather. Those who escaped from their sinking ships and made it safely to land were later executed by Sir Turlough O’Brien of Liscannor and Boethius Clancy, High Sheriff of Clare.

    It was not known by the English authorities in Ireland whether the Spanish sailed this way around Ireland because their ships were damaged and the storm prevented them from sailing back the quick way or if it was part of a Spanish plan to invade Ireland.As news of the English victory had not reached William FitzWilliam, the Lord Deputy of Ireland, he had issued a blanket command that all Spanish found in Ireland were to be executed with their ships and treasure seized. The executed Spanish were buried in a mass grave in an area of Spanish Point known locally as Tuama Na Spáinneach (Tomb of the Spaniards). Despite this, there was no archaeological evidence for the claim until 2015 when a group of historians investigating the location of the wreck of San Marcos stated they had found a mass grave under Spanish Point which contained the bodies of the executed Spanish sailors. [cc Wikipedia]

    The landscape also changed and I was now cycling through the Burren with its karst landscape of bedrock incorporating a vast cracked pavement of glacial-era limestone, with cliffs and caves, fossils, rock formations and archaeological sites. [cc Wikipedia]

    It was here Fergus used his drone to capture me cycling through this landscape. A video I will treasure. At one moment a large coach passes me yet I have no recollection of any traffic!

    I was about to turn east and ride towards Checkpoint 2. This was located at at a farm run by a cousin of Adrian’s, Anne. Anne had insisted he route the riders there so she could meet them and look after them. It was pretty flat until the Francis Gap which had a section of 18% climb. Then down toward Duniry and the farm – pretty much in the middle of nowhere.

    There were bikes littering the courtyard and riders milling about or asleep in various rooms. Anne thrust a large paper cup of hot soup in my hand and exhorted me to have some soda bread and butter, biscuits, fruit cake, bananas, tea and anything else I could lay my hands on in the kitchen! Meanwhile Adrian swopped my tracker as it had stopped working properly.

    There were two riders asleep in the room Anne showed me to and a spare mattress for me. I got a quick shower and then snuggled into my sleeping bag. At midnight, the other two got up and headed off into the night. I rolled over and slept until the morning.

    It had been a good day.

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  • TAW – Day 2 – Bantry to Tralee

    13th June, 2025

    The day started with some confusion. I had ordered a continental style breakfast for 4.30am. When I got down to the dining area the overnight porter said both the 4.30 breakfasts were taken and the next was at 5am. Some sleuthing deduced that one of the peeps tucking into a 4.30 repast had actually ordered his for 5am but with some limitations to his English had assumed what he got was what he ordered. Did it matter? Nah. the night porter just brought out the food and coffee and all was well.

    I can confirm I was on the road by 5.09am as that is what this photo of Bantry Bay is labelled with on the computer.

    The weather was much better than yesterday and views along the coast unfolded delightfully.

    The first big climb of the day was Healey Pass about 6km long at 4-5%. A classy little climb with lots of hairpins and through some rocky terrain.

    And then you get to the top and catch the view ahead and a cracking descent

    I couldn’t get over how lovely the countryside was, how quiet the roads were and how good the petrol stations were as a source of food. I had heard tell that they were good but they exceeded expectation with their hot and cold deli counters, coffee machines and bountiful supply of carbohydrate laced nourishment.

    There were also some cracking cafes and passing through Kenmare I spotted two other TAW cyclists finishing off food and coffee and one told me the pie was delicious. Well I had to, didn’t I! She was right. I think it was Paula who told me this and she will feature more later in the race.

    Another pass followed, the Gap o Dunloe with twisty roads and fine views.

    If I remember correctly the only traffic consisted of horse drawn traps and walkers so I was able to get someone to take a picture of me at the crest of the pass.

    By this point I had done about 100km and it was not yet noon. On reflection I think the secret to the ride was starting early. I am naturally a morning person and starting around 5am means a good chunk of distance is behind you by lunchtime (whenever that is).

    On my descent I came past a real life Trail Angel. I screeched to a halt and turned back to take advantage of his offer of energy bars. Thank you Dave, they were a very useful in addition to the sausage baguette and coke from a petrol station, a little later, that marked ‘lunchtime’.

    Dingle marked the passing of 160km or 100miles. I have fond memories of Dingle as Linda and I took a bike ride out along the fuchsia hedged roads when we were there on our honeymoon and, once more, the fuchsia was in bloom.

    I had decided I would try and make Tralee for the day and started looking on Booking.com for somewhere to stay. Unfortunately there was nowhere to book. It had also started to rain and I had to don my overtrousers as well as my jacket a couple of times. It was too hot to wear if not raining but too wet not to put on if it was. The downpours would only last 30minutes to an hour so it was a bit of a faff but I have learnt it is best to try and stay dry otherwise I can quickly get cold and chafe.

    Before Tralee there was Connor Pass to be climbed. I am looking at my record on Strava and can see that it took me just over an hour to climb 6.5km with an average of 6%. Another lesson I learnt is to enjoy the climb at a pace I can sustain. There is always a descent to enjoy and catch up on some of the time lost.

    I made it to Tralee and asked someone on the street if they knew of a hotel. they pointed me in the direction of The James Hotel. I asked the doorman if they had any rooms. “We only have a superior left at xxx euros”. I must have looked doubtful as he suggested trying a place across the street. It may have been a guesthouse but I could not fathom how to get in or connect with anyone so I went back and said I would take the room. “Any chance of dinner?” “The kitchen is shut now but let me see what I can do.” Meanwhile I got to my room, showered, put on a clean t shirt (I had to wear my bib shorts as I had no other clothes) and went back down to the bar. “Would you like a pizza?” Oh, how wonderful! A pizza and Guinness zero put me right and the doorman gave me extra biscuits and tea and coffee when he learned I was leaving before breakfast the next morning. I thoroughly recommend The James Hotel 🙂

    It had been a good day and I had made more than 250km that day before I collapsed into a nice, comfortable bed, with the alarm set for early o’clock.

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