The rustling started early and I could see Jo was packing so I hauled myself out of my sleeping bag around 4am. Previous experience of alpine huts had taught me to ask if they would leave breakfast out if we planned an early start. Sure enough there was hot water, coffee, milk, cereal bread, butter and jam to feast on. It was still dark outside when we set of just before 5am, necessitating lights to see the path but above us the stars in the sky were magnificent. I rarely get to capture them with a phone camera but this was an exception.

I started the traverse of the salt road and, as the dawn smashed the sky blue, a beautiful day enveloped me surrounded by staggering views..

I was playing tag with Haico, Jo and Martin. Jo had been bitten by an Alsatian somewhere on the trail and when we met up at the refuge Barbera we were able to have a good look at the wound. Phone calls home elicited that there was no real risk of rabies (confirmed by Niel who is well versed in getting rabies shots having been bitten on another event in Europe). I should have insisted she source some antibiotics as dog bites quickly get infected due to the bacteria inhabiting their mouths. She cleaned and dressed it and was soon ready to carry on.

The off road finally came to an end and there was a wonderfully sinuous tarmac descent to Tende (I think) where we all stopped at a Carrefour for resupplies. There were other cyclists there, including Stuart. I bought the best food I had sourced at a supermarket since starting – a glass jar of cold rice pudding. My spork was put into action! Then there was another beast of a climb – 26km. Mostly paved but petering out towards the end. Gradually the light faded as we climbed. Tail lights blinked high above me. Gabbi Winck set up camp not far below the col. Her video of the event captures the terrain and scenery brilliantly https://youtu.be/HefS1F8VtvA?si=-Xgr3i9e_AVqsw0g

I kept moving; slowly. Jo had said she had booked a cabin 80km further on which she and Martin were aiming for. I didn’t feel I could make it that far so, as I descended I started looking for places to pitch the tent.

Unbeknownst to me Martin had accidentally left his rear bag undone and was in the process of losing his tent and cold weather gear which was an utter disaster for his race!

I came across an area with the top of a ski lift and some cabins. One of them was lit up so I descended a short way off route to see if I could source some water.

Inside were half a dozen French people eating their dinner. After the initial shock of seeing this apparition appear out of the dark they made me come in, gave me water, cheese sandwiches, tomatoes and a peach! I found it hard to pack it all into my camelback but felt it would be rude to refuse.

Back on the route I shortly afterwards found a picnic area which, despite the barking dog in the nearby house, looked perfect. I put up the tent, ate and then squirrelled my way into the sleeping bag. It was nearly midnight but I was pretty pleased with my riding and looking forward to finding a town to have breakfast in tomorrow.