I found it hard to get out of the sleeping bag and had a later start than previous days. I think I didn’t get going till nearly 6.30pm. I had heard other riders passing by in the night. Not sure if they saw my tent but I heard the crunch of tyre on gravel and lights sweeping the length of the tent as they descended.

If I remember correctly, and to be honest there is so much that is a blur of time and place now, the track down was quite rough, technical in places and with frequent switchbacks.

I got to village and saw two men sitting outside a door drinking coffee. I stopped. Inside was a small store and I was able to order a croissant and a pain au chocolat. In the past I would probably have just ordered a croissant or a pain aux chocolat. Experience and coaching has drilled in to me to double my orders! In fact I went in again but they had run out of both (a common theme!!).

James and Kate arrived. There is an easy camaraderie amongst participants of these events which even transcends national borders. They were riding as a pair. Later the same day I would see James outside a Carrefour changing his brake pads. I learned later they had then failed and he was wondering if he could follow Kate downhill with just one brake working (I reserve judgement on that idea!). Then mysteriously they came across a sign in the middle of nowhere to a bike shop for e-bike rental. Inside James asked the custodian if he might be able to fix his brake. “Mais oui” was the simple reply. He did. I have a theory that if they go back there now that shop will not exist. It was ‘The Miracle of The Alps Divide’.…

The WhatsApp was filling with messages about the inclement weather ahead. The temperature was forecast to drop to -6c on the tops. I was beginning to wonder about my options. At the pace I was going I couldn’t see myself finishing by the Sunday evening, let alone Saturday. The cut off times for the Control Points had been put back by 12 hours because of the rainstorm that hit us on day two. I was hearing from those in front of of me that some of the climbs ahead were really brutal, including one long hike a bike.

I have learned that these events are 50% physical and 50% psychological. When I spoke to Niel before the event he had gone through my options. Mainly these focussed on enjoying myself. I was enjoying myself despite the long climbs but I was calculating in my own head how much risk I was prepared to take. All of this influenced my decision making as I continued to ride up and down towards CP1.

I was coming past Isola which I knew of as a ski resort. There was a cycle path which was fun to ride on although the traffic in France had not been problematic.

As I started to climb I knew I had the Col del la Bonette ahead of me and then a descent to the refuge at Bayasse which was the first Checkpoint. if I rode through the night I could probably beat the 7am cut off.

I mulled it over and decided I did not want to ride over the col in the dark. I got the phone out and started searching Booking.com There was a hotel in Auron. A bit off route but I fancied a night of comfort. I had recently also learnt how to drop a pin on Apple Maps and then send it directly to my Garmin which would then route me to that destination. So I did that. Or at least I thought I did. I ended up in St Etienne de Tinee which was still on route. So I cancelled the hotel and stopped at a bar and ordered a hot chocolate. I asked if there was hotel. The woman, who I think ran the bar, gesticulated up the road and a droit. Then she asked me if I wanted an AirBnb for 60 euros. After a call by her to confirm it was available and a search on the app I booked the accommodation which was up the end of the road. I was able to push my bike into a little studio straight off the pavement. There were no towels or soap but I had a dry flannel and there was some washing up liquid and hot water in the shower. There was a ‘kit explosion’ as I dried out my sleeping bag, tent, clothes, charged my devices and changed into some casual attire (I carried one pair of light trousers, pants and a t-shirt for such occasions).

Then I walked a 100m up the road and ordered a burger and fries before returning to the cosy studio and sleeping on the sofa which may or may not have been a sofa bed…

I had no regrets about stopping early. I was a bit embarrassed I missed a message from Darren, who was hot on my heels. He camped out a little further back but I would have been happy to share the room with him given the falling temperatures.

Tomorrow I would make my mind up in Barcelonette what to do about the rest of the route.